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At a December banquet at Archestratus Books & Foods in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, Ms. Golip adapted a anniversary meal. Like Thanksgiving in the United States, Christmas in Venezuela comes with set dishes and menus. Some guests were Venezuelan, and best guests she knew. Her dinners ambit from $75 to $125, but she affairs to alpha added accidental affable classes in the future. This is a affection activity — she works a day job as a activity administrator in business at The New York Times. Her airheaded booty weeks to plan.

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“I am aggravating to charm the flavors of my anamnesis with what happens to be around,” she said. “I atone with what I could acquisition here, and that’s absolutely the broader acquaintance of actuality immigrant.”

At the December dinner, anniversary bowl came from the anniversary menu. For an appetizer, Ms. Golip fabricated a cocktail with wine and three grapes, a advertence to a Venezuelan attitude of bistro eat 12 grapes and authoritative 12 wishes on New Year’s Eve.

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Almost every Venezuelan bakery sells ham bread, pan de jamón, at year’s end. When Ms. Golip couldn’t acquisition any, she abstruse to accomplish the blimp aliment herself. For a capital course, she served hallacas, which like tamales are blimp and bankrupt with blah chef and meat. Traditionally, families appear calm in December to accomplish the anniversary dishes, folding and attached shut the plantain leaves, assembly-line-style.

“It has an aspect of ritual,” said Jose Ripol, 32, a bedfellow at her table who had larboard Venezuela as a child. “This plantain blade is what Christmas smells like to me.”

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In her menu, Ms. Golip recalled flavors from holidays past, afore Venezuela descended into bread-and-butter and amusing chaos, afore her accompany broadcast beyond the world.

“The places I bethink don’t abide anymore,” Miriam Marquez, 39, a bedfellow who immigrated from Venezuela. “Especially now. That’s why this aliment reminds me of my childhood.”

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My Venezuelan Kitchen, advice at iambananista.com or on Instagram, @iambananista

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