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Plundered, dismantled and stolen, it’s a phenomenon that the Ghent Altarpiece – additionally accepted as the Admiration of the Mystic Lamb – by brothers Hubert and Jan Van Eyck, has survived. Now a forensic, seven-year apology of the 15th-century polyptych has appear the accuracy of its aboriginal palette and capacity – tendrils of adorable hair, the beam of a chestnut bubbler – blurred over time. To celebrate, curators at Ghent’s Building of Fine Arts accept aggregate 13 of Jan Van Eyck’s 23 actual paintings (none of Hubert’s works remain) for an exhibition that will accommodate 10 panels from the altarpiece alongside sculptures and aflame manuscripts by contemporaries. Elsewhere in Ghent, Eyckian-themed contest will analyze the assignment of an artisan acclaimed for his ability of ablaze and detail.

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Not that you charge a accurate acumen to appointment Belgium’s third better burghal afterwards Brussels and Antwerp. Convenient (less than three hours by Eurostar from St Pancras) and car-free, Ghent is as admirable as adjacent Bruges, but afterwards the crowds. Arriving on a backward winter’s afternoon, it acquainted magical: lamplight arced in mist, bridges reflected like gold crescents in aphotic waterways belted by medieval and renaissance townhouses. But this is no twee preserved time-warp. Ghent is additionally home to Belgium’s better university, which gives the abode its rough-edged energy. Vinyl and best food sit abutting to book-lined vegan cafés. Protest banners avalanche from art-nouveau balconies. We saw a ballerina giving an ad-lib achievement in the axis of a church. Ghent alike has its own Banksy, the graffiti and artery artisan ROA, whose ambiguous animals afraid us in abrupt alleyways.

In Van Eyck’s day Ghent was the additional better burghal in Europe afterwards Paris. Its fortunes were founded on atom and, later, textiles, alloyed by bags of workers from absolute alien from England. We began our two-day bout with a airing forth the photogenic Graslei, a anchorage area a 12th-century granary survives. Nearby, a sandstone applique of a address marks the address of the Free Skippers, who imposed tolls on boats entering the city. At Gravensteen, the medieval alcazar that was home to the able counts of Flanders, an audio bout by a bounded actor brings abrupt privies and dungeons to life. Gentians, we learnt, are a stubborn, wilful lot. In 1949, acceptance agitation adjoin the acceleration in amount of beer stormed the battlements, casting rotten bake-apple at police.

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They still accomplish beer in the medieval way, application herbs rather than hops. At the Gruut Burghal Brewery you can sample it beeline from vats. Under beams in the Great Butchers’ Hall we queued for addition Gentian speciality, rode neuzen – conical raspberry sweets with a gloopy centre. Dodging trams, we headed to the family-run Chocolaterie Van Hoorebeke area you can attending through the bottle attic to see chocolates actuality made.

For a acceptable appearance over the city, arch to the 15th-century Ghent Belfry, abutting to St Nicholas Abbey in the capital square. We autonomous for tea at 1898 The Post, a auberge in a neo-gothic above column appointment with a alarm belfry advised by Louis Cloquet, artist of the admirable St Pieters railway station. A bean access apprehension up to the auberge bar, area mullioned windows attending on to the spires of St Michael’s Abbey with its baroque Van Dyck. Tea is served in English china; achromatic portraits and aged armchairs accord the 38-room auberge the feel of a Belgian castle.

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Avant-garde architecture has additionally consistently flourished in Ghent. In the Architecture Museum, 20th-century artist Henry Van de Velde’s modernist appliance cuts a birr in the wood-panelled rooms. A courtyard garden leads to the new addendum abounding with beginning furniture, ceramics and glassware by Belgian designers Piet Stockmans and Maarten Van Severen. The loo is addition abolitionist gesture. It’s housed in a toilet-roll shaped architecture apparent by the assurance “de pot op” – go to the loo – which additionally agency “go to hell”, in affront of the board who banned funds for the museum’s expansion.

On Sunday, angelus accretion chorused and acceptance on sit-up-and-beg bikes clattered beyond cobbles. We visited the annual bazaar and the quayside book stalls, area I bought a book from an Englishman who has lived actuality back the 1980s, but confided he had yet to adept the Gentian dialect: “I allege two languages, English and rubbish.”

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A beach walk, accomplished houseboats and barges took us to Stam, the burghal building set beyond 14th, 17th and 21st-century spaces. Displays and recordings blueprint the city’s ebb and breeze from adulterated archipelago of Viking times to avant-garde trading hub. The photographs of soot-blackened 19th aeon Ghent (when the bolt industry rivalled that of Manchester) were abnormally mesmerising. A allowance is laid out like a detective’s appointment with cuttings account the 1934 annexation and bribe of the Ghent Altarpiece’s Just Judges panel. One allotment was alternate in an act of acceptable faith. The added has still not been found.

We undertook the crusade to St Bavo’s Cathedral to see the absolute thing. Around 160,000 bodies appointment annually to boring at the altarpiece which tells the adventure of Christ’s sacrifice. Within its busy frame, an adorable choir sings, saints and sinners accumulate annular the lamb with its bisected animal face, and absent hills are dotted with building and spires. The capacity are as absolute and arresting as Ghent itself.

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Eurostar from London St Pancras to Ghent from £109 return. Zannier Hotels’ 1898 The Column has apartment from £155. St Bavo’s Cathedral is accessible every day except 1 January, acceptance £3.50

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